They are pretty enough, but nothing special. Special socks tend not to get worn for a while (I still haven’t worn the passionate purple petal socks yet... soon, but not yet!) Not so special socks get admired and fondled for a much shorter time, and the blackjack socks are nothing special.I tried, after finishing them to work on the tam.
I think I have to frog back to the ribbing and start again. My count is off—(now that I finally have a chart big enough to work with—I can’t work Row 1 of chart 1—and have it come out right.
Of course I shouldn’t be doing work like that at night anyway—I just go brain dead as the sun sets... (And that is way too early in the winter).
So instead, I went to rummage for my next subway project (and meanwhile fermenting is my Ravelympics project) –and while all the sock yarn was calling out Me! Me! Me next!—and some, like the lovely indigo yarn that Kelly dyed for me was even being listened too… Then I heard a soft Please from some worsted weight yarn.
Months ago I decide this yarn was going to be a pair of fingerless gloves, and well its time has come! --see it here still in a twisted skein--
So the skeins got divide, and the design process got started.For me, it most often starts with the yarn.
The prime yarn here is the hand painted skein of ArtYarn superwash merino.
It is beautiful—but I only have the single skein (and I got it in a swap, just the one!) and it’s a smallish skein (109 yards/50 gms).
Is that enough for a pair of fingerless glove? Maybe—but. To be sure, a solid or two—to co-ordinate. I have both the a raspberry and the grape-- So I have choices. And I have some white of the same yarn, too—but I don’t think I want to use the white. The Raspberry and grape are another machine washable wool –not merino, but still very soft. (They are in fact, Mode Dea machine washable wool)
So now the plan or design begins to come together.
This hand painted yarn, and another yarn (or will it be yarns!?) will become fingerless gloves.
Now—how to work the yarns.
Stripes? Chevrons? Solid body, with lacy cuffs or ruffles worked with the hand painted?
Tentatively, the plan was a side placket, and cuff worked in lace, using the hand painted yarn, and the solid yarn making up the bulk of the glove.
Time to hit the stitch dictionaries—I found lots of laces I liked –but none quite worked—they were too big, (and since this is worsted weight, and the lace would be big just based on the yarn…) or they were small and pretty, but would have been hell to miter—(and of course the idea was a placket edge, a mitered corner, and lace cuff.)
So I just turn the pages. This was nice, and that was nice, and then suddenly—the perfect pattern appeared. It’s not at all what I originally had in mind—but there it was-- the perfect stitch pattern! (You'll have to wait till Monday (most likely) to see it!)
It’s not written for working in the round, But it is very suitable. The pattern repeat is every 3 R’s—if worked flat, it would be R3, R6, R9—or alternately worked on the right side and wrong side—a PITA. But worked in the round? Not an issue—and since its mostly stocking knit—changing to knitting in the round is pretty simple (knit rounds, not alternately knit and purl)
It’s simple (I don’t want anything too complex for the subway!) It has the potential to look smashing with hand painted yarn—and finally—I haven’t seen it used recently (or for that matter, ever!)--though, things being what they are, I expect to see it the the spring issue of some magazine--It is, a very spring like pattern.
The single disadvantage is that it is a directional stitch. So unlike most fingerless gloves, mine will be worked from the fingers to the cuff. I am not (nor had I ever planned to) making finger holes. These fingerless gloves are just going to be tubes with a small thumb gusset –quick and easy.
These will be a quick project—they are being knit on size 6(4mm) needles—Huge compared to my usual subway socks projects knit on size 2’s.
And there are commensurably, with the bigger yarn, bigger needles and larger gauge; fewer stitches (40 or perhaps 44,) not 60 as there would be for socks.
And there is less shaping—thumb gussets are the only shaping required—which is significantly less than even the simplest heel.
I’ve already cast on. (And now am faced with the question—do I work the hand painted yarn as MC (do I have enough?) Or do I work the hand painted as the CC? (Will that be a waste of the hand painted and leave me with yards and yards of unused yarn—but not nearly enough yards to do anything else with?)
I am off to Ravelry –I’ll check out some other fingerless gloves and get an idea of the yardage requirements. And then—Off I go!

See, I did make some progress! And the stripe is working out nicely—or well almost nicely. The toe will be worked in the main yarn (the stripe patterned sock yarn) , but the pattern is going to be the solid black stripe (and will match the solid black –contrasting solid black) heel.
In person, it’s very clear the heel is knit in a different yarn.. the black is a much darker, more saturated, evener black. The Kroy is also a bit heavier—(not a bad thing for a heel!) and the gauge is oh, so slightly different But then, most of the heel is the flap, and the flap is worked in Heel stitch, which has a different gauge anyway! –the difference is most notable at the bottom of the foot—after the turn when I returned to the Heart and Sole—Or the bottom of the foot of the sock-- and no one is going to notice a slight change in gauge there.
The Rib Off hat is a reverse engineered design, inspired by a hat featured in many of the promotional ads for the new PIX series,
This image, (from last night) was taken when a half dozen more rows (all decrease rows) needed to be knit.
Not quite 6 inches yet, (5.5) and yes, I think 6 inches is the right length—but not 1 row more than 6 inches!
3—I changed needles after I finished the ribbing (I, like most knit a bit looser when ribbing, and tend to go down a needle size) –but this made the top way too poofy—which was made worse by the poofiness not being in the right place—(see item 2!)
(Ok there are 2 more small elements, (1) I didn’t do, (a pompom!) and (2)I did do—and it was fine—this last element is about 2 inches of garter—a nice detail but a perfect detail doesn’t comp for major problems!
Today’s work (some ribbing) will be more or less the same—
socks—(and this name so works—I am knitting them 2 at time, cuff down—or doubling down on the socks!)
So last night I cast on...
And made some progress (what you are seeing is roughly 6.5 by 11 inches... and about 60% or so percent done)—(Did I say 11? Well it does measure about 11 inches) --Hard to see what it is? Well no wonder, the image is blurry! D'oh, did you think you'd get a really good hint?
The tam is worked in 5 colors. This first tam will be Current, Water Chestnut(the two colors in my Peachy sweater) Wisteria (a pastel purple) Royal Purple (a deep purple) and Lemon Grass—a yellow green. 
And then there are the non-knitting things I have in my mental queue—a skirt or two to sew up, and some knitting bags (as gifts) and other sewing projects.
Last night I finished the 2 row scarf—Knitting and finishing!
around my neck—and the thought was, this narrow(ish) scarf could be worn folded and the ends tucked into the fold. To be long enough to do this, (
I started with an Italian (tubular) cast on, and finished with a grafted bind off (see details to left) and worked in simple double knitting (K1, Slip 1) the way it worked was:
The stripes, too are nice—and the color balance/color changes.

Skein 2—a sort of hand painted look—but done the lazy way in a big flat bath that allow me to drip dye/color where i want it--not in a deep pot.
I’ve never much used mordants like iron, or tin, or alum—I’ve done mostly simple dying..Sometimes working to get an even all over color, other times working with dyes that I know will break or separate, (and working to get those breaks) I have made semi solids by intentionally having uneven consentrations of dye in the water bath..








I haven’t been resting on my laurels (do I have laurels to rest on?) Here’s the double knit hat,
The hat is to my thinking a real beret—(it can be worn as a slouch hat, but it is a proper flat beret) It's not quite finished, but you can still see the spokes that are a key design element.


