These will be my 3rd pair of socks knit with Koigu (it's usually a bit to expensive a yarn for my budget) PPM or the kind with more P's and more M's!
One pair has held up fine,--except that they have faded-- the second pair (from an exchange, where the recipient got a pair of very well knit socks, made a with bargain yarn and I got OK workmanship pair of socks with expensive yarn) are not holding up so well
I've only worn these exchange socks 3 or 4 times. (The first time I wore them I nearly lost a toe—the toe shaping was so –lets say, unique—it cut off circulation! )
Since then, I have frogged the toe and re knit it, (adding in some co-ordinating yarn to make the toes wider, longer and flatter (the original toe was almost gathered didn't lie flat)) and today I noticed there is a broken stitch in the heel. (I will mend before it grows so big as to require real work (aka darning) to fix.)
I started the re-enforcement 6 rounds or so before I started the actual flap—when I stopped working the lace pattern at the back of the sock, and continued the lace in the front (and end up with about 7 full inches of leg—my standard sock top length). I've continued it in the flap and will continue it into the turning, and might even continue to work the nylon a bit on the bottom of the foot only.
To do this-- R1: work the sole portion of the sock with both strands
DO not continue nylon into gusset. (drop nylon) continue round with just sock yarn
R2 : Work till you come to the sole (for me, this is Needle 1 of 2, and this needle has gusset stitches, sole stitches and gusset stitches.)
The nylon is at the left hand side of sole (where it was dropped in R1.
I spool out some nylon, (about 3 times the width of the stitches in sole) and bring a loop of the nylon to right side of work.
This will make a big loop of loose nylon. I hold the loop and sock yarn together, and knit the loop.
this leaves the 'ball' (or rather spool) end of the nylon on the right edge of the sole.
If I have underestimated, the last stitch or two of the sole does not get re-enforced, (and there is a dash of nylon on the inside. Even done with the right sized loop, the last stitch or two is awkward to work.
On the next round, the nylon is just where it is needed.
It's a bit of PITA—but I will only do it for a half dozen or so rounds –not the full length of the gusset, but just a half inch or so of the bottom of the heel (just exactly where I have found a broken thread in my other Kougi socks!) should be enough.
I have done intartia in the round this same way--but intartia is less forgiving!
I have done intarsia in the round by knitting (standard) all of color A, and slipping color B stitches, , then working in a true left hand style knit all of color B, (and slipped the already knit color A stitches.)
Then continued (on the next needle) using color A only...
And I have done intaria by looping the yarn into position. I've gotten pretty good and figuring out how big a loop is needed-- but not in any way I can explain scientifically!
My red and white mittens knit this fall had a continuous pattern on palm, but 4 (spaced out) plain rows on the front –Not something you'd notice unless you thought to look for it! and the rows were worked both ways (it depended on my mood and where I was knitting.)