Yesterday, I got 4 Hats from Robyn Love—(a knitter, like me, who feels compelled to knit fancy hats, with stripes, and fair isle elements!)
OK, so I added the top knot—she was 2 or 3 rounds from completion, when time ran out Sunday,
I haven’t been resting on my laurels (do I have laurels to rest on?) Here’s the double knit hat,
Brown bear (still not done! –but I will finish it tonight at LIC Knit Night) is waiting till it is finished before it gets photographed.
The hat is to my thinking a real beret—(it can be worn as a slouch hat, but it is a proper flat beret) It's not quite finished, but you can still see the spokes that are a key design element.
Here is how to make one of your own!
The hat is knit in a worsted (Lion Brand Wool Ease to be exact-1 skein (circa 200 yards) is more than enough—but any worsted weight would be suitable, if it knits to the same gauge.
One a size 6 (4 mm) needle and one size 8 (5mm) (circs or DPN’s)
5 or 6 (or 10) stitch markers.
Gauge: (will effect size!) 18 stitches/24 rows = 4 inches/10 cm(size 8 needles)
Cast on – (I used an Open/Closed Long Tail (aka a Latvian long tail) 101 stitches. (link to my video of same) –Using the smaller needles.
Join into a round; --knit the last cast on stitch together with the first, to
A) correct count
B) make the ribbing work evenly on the pairs of stitches created by cast on
I just use the tail to mark Beginning of round, you can use marker if desired.
Work in 2 X 2 ribbing for 2 inches—(you can do less, but I think a deep ribbed hem looks and fits better)
Change to larger needle and increase:
Knit 10, M1 (or Knit 9, Knit front & Back) (it doesn’t matter here)—110 stitches
Work even in stocking knit for 7 rounds; Next increase:
Round 8: knit 6, *M1, Knit 11, Repeat from *, end round with K5.
(Here it does matter, and you should use a Make 1, (lifted bar type) to make the increases almost invisible) –120 stitches
Work even for 7 more rounds
Round 16: K12, *M1, Knit 24, Repeat from * end round with K12—125 stitches
(again, invisible increases are required)
Work even for 7 more rounds.
On the last round, place markers for decreases—I find that split ring or safety pin markers IN THE STITCH work better—but do as you chose!
Mark the 13th stitch, then the 38th, the 63rd, 88th, 113th, (I also like, as I am working, to mark the segments (i.e., a different color marker between stitches 25/26, and between, 50/51, etc. You want to have 5 groups of 25 stitches, with the center (13th stitch of each group) marked.
Next Round: begin decreases—decreases will be worked every other round till completion. There are 5 sets of decreases, (10 total decreases) Every other Round.
Make Raised Center Double Decrease, with the marked stitch being the center stitch of the decrease.
A Raised Center Double Decrease:
Slip 2 stitches together (both at once) as if to knit. K1, then Pass both stitches over Knit 1, (both at once) so that the marked stitch (the center stitch) is raised, and remains in center.
There are 5 sets of decreases EOR, and stitch count will decrease by 10’s—continue, working till 5 stitches remain.
Work 5 to 7 rounds of I-cord with these 5 stitches, and then bind off drawstring style.
Finish by weaving in the yarn tails.
The 5 raised decreases will create the spokes of a 5 pointed star; the beret will have a vague pentagon shape, and will easily lie flat.
If desire block, (use a small (about 10 inch) dinner plate or pot lid to block to shape.